Day 7 is our last full day in the Masai Mara area and we plan for a good morning drive as well as a full evening drive.

We set out northbound from the camp since one of the lion prides have been spotted not too far from the camp. Weather has continued to be shifting and clouds and rain seems to reduce our chance of that nice sunrise light. We arrive at a rocky hillside where some young lions and cubs seem to be gathered waiting for the adults. Presumably the older members of the pride were still out hunting.

A group of lion cubs wait for the adults to return with fresh food

The youngsters are pretty calm, and since the skies are cloudy and grey, we hang around photographing them for a while. While we’re there, an Impala buck walks right into the area. One of the cubs decide to try to sneak in on it, but its clumsy attempt quickly gets discovered and the buck easily jumps away.

While waiting for the rest of the pride to return, a cub practices its crouching skills on a passing impala

They clearly have some leftovers from a previous meal, and one of the female cubs gingerly walks around with an antilope leg. The male cub is obviously envious and tries to beg for it, with no response.

A male lion cub looks on with envy as sister walks by with leftovers from a previous meal.

As we move down towards the Ntiakitiak river, the weather quickly clears up and what remains of that nice morning light warms up the riverbank. A group of baboons have settled in the trees above the hippo pools and sound the alarm as we approach. The guards keep a keen eye on us and the hippos below while the rest of the group are busy collecting fresh leafbuds in the trees. Baboons are one of those few animals that will truly eat anything if they have to.

The little baby baboon is well protected by its mother and the dominent male as the group have settled in trees above the hippo pools.

The hippos have returned to the pools after the nights grazing and don’t seem to pay much attention to us or the noisy baboons. They’re often quite restless in the mornings until the hierarchy in the pool has been established, but there were so few here there probably wasn’t a reason to fight for the space.

Hippos have returned to the hippo pools along the Ntiakitiak river for the day.

The conservancy model differs from the national parks in that the land is originally private land owned by the local Maasai communities, and as such contains both settlements and livestock. In addition to renting out space to the smaller, environmentally friendly camps, the presence of livestock provides additional benefits to the wildlife viewing in the conservancies. The cows and goats help keep the grass down, even when the big migratory herds are in Serengeti, providing better hunting conditions for the vulnerable cheetah.

Along the Ntiakitiak river we meet this group of herders with their cattle, stopping for a drink.

3 maasai herders have led their cattle to the river. The conservancies balance the needs of wildlife, livestock and people, providing unique advantages for all sides.

While many maasai always wear their traditional checkered clothes, some prefer more western clothes, especially in the cold mornings.

Caught in the act… Moving on…

A pair of spotted hyenas mating. There’s a lot of growling and howling.

The showers in the night and morning have made the ground pretty soggy, and the areas near car tracks quite muddy. A lioness with her two cubs are resting right by the tracks and the cubs have obviously been more focused on play than on grooming for a while.

A small lion cub shows off his fiercest combat expression. (OK, he’s yawning…)

While we were watching, one of the cubs discovered a nearby warthog burrow and starts exploring the edges of the entrance. The mother, who have so far been looking relaxed and somewhat disinterested in the cubs activities suddenly get up and hurry over to the lair, with the more cautious cub in tow. She obviously felt it was best to make sure the burrow was really empty before the little explorer decided to enter it. A protective warthog could easily kill a young lion that tries to enter its lair.

Mother comes over to make sure the warthog lair one of the cubs found is safe to play in.

Once she’s satisfied the hole in the ground is safe, she relaxes and lets the cubs go back to playing on their own.

Mother keeps watch as the two young cubs explore an empty warthog burrow.

Mom is getting some rest while the kids continue to play “lion and warthog”.

As before we’ve brought a packed breakfast with us so we don’t need to return to the camp for breakfast. Quite frankly these breakfasts are so awesome, there’s no reason to eat in camp. You get a full breakfast with eggs, sausage and bacon, pancakes, fruit, coffee or tea as well as juice, and enjoy it to a spectacular view. Why would you sit in a tent? After breakfast I took this photo of Big John and Jared who have been guiding me on all my 3 visits to Masai Mara so far. They are fantastic people and incredible guides.

The two fantastic guides that have showed me around the Mara area for my previous 3 trips, Big John and Jared.

Another vehicle from Porini Lion coming from the crossing over Olare Orok. Tents of Porini Lion can barely be spotted among the trees to the far right.

A lone tree… ok, not quite lone… on a not quite hilly hill…

A maasai herder with cattle. Some permanent settlements in the background against the Oloololo escarpment

We set out again in the afternoon for the evening drive. We track some giraffes and buffalos but the light isn’t quite there yet, and there’s not much action.

Impalas running next to the car, showing off their agility.

As the light fades we come across another lioness with very young cubs. The cubs are superenergetic and are constantly playing. It’s a bundle of laughs.

A cub takes a break from the sibling playfighting by relaxing next to mom.

A cub practices its sneaking skills on a sibling.

Cubs are training their hunting skills on each other while the mother keeps watch.

A short break in the play between cubs.

The breaks don’t last long for the hyperactive lion cubs. Soon they’re back at trying to pretend kill eachother.

As the sun sets we find a group of wildebeest and zebras on a ridge, but unfortunately the clouds are once again moving in, blocking some of our glorious golden light. Even when I get out of the car and lay down on the grounds, I can’t seem to place the light behind them

A wildebeest against a cloudy sunset.

We return back to the camp earlier than previous evenings, since the light got swallowed by the clouds. It’s been a roaring day with lots of lion cubs. You can’t  honestly have too much kittens, can you?

In addition to our full access to the Olare Motorogi conservancy we were staying in, we had booked one day passes to the Maasai Mara National Reserve. For most wildlife viewing and photography, I’d say your experience in the conservancies will be better than in the reserve. But the reserve does offer a few unique elements that the conservancies lack. In particular, the big rivers Mara and Talek with their wildebeest crossing points are mostly in the reserve.

We had arranged with John and Jared the day before that this would be the day we would visit the reserve, and because of that also spend the entire day on a drive. This usually results in quite a shoot with a lot of interesting experiences, and as such this post contains a lot more pics than most of the other daily posts.

We started before sunrise (of course) and made it into the reserve looking for something interesting to shoot when the golden light arrives. We come across two lionesses that seem to be relaxing away from the pride. Maybe they’re on a hunt, or on their way to young cubs which are usually hidden away from the rest of the pride.

Two lionesses had separated from the pride, possibly to hunt, and were taking a rest before the sun came up

We haven’t seen anything more interesting, so we decide to hang around until the sun comes up. Minutes later the sun rises over the horizon and the savanna is flooded in that gorgeous light. As it does, the lionesses decide it’s time to get going and start moving past us like we’re not there at all.

Lioness bathed in the warm morning light

As the sun rises over the Mara, the incredible warm light floods everything for a few magical moments.

As they move away we notice a group of hyenas fighting over a carcass nearby. Maybe it was the lionesses kill the night before, or maybe some old bones, but the competition in the group is fierce.

A group of hyenas have managed to steal the remains of a carcass during the night and were fighting over the pieces.

Other scavengers have gathered in the area and are paying close attention to see if some bits and pieces are left unattended.

A group of vultures keep watch for any scraps of food that might become unguarded.

As the magical light fades, a balloon drifts across the mara behind a tree with vultures and an eagle

We come across a male ostrich, I haven’t seen nearly as many of these as I had expected on this trip. The light is still pretty warm, so I snap a pic

Not as common as in Samburu, a few ostriches still roam around in the Mara

Topis are scattered all over the Mara, usually in between groups of zebras or wildebeest. The males will typically find a mound like an abandoned warthog lair to stand on, with their front legs on the highest point. I tried to get a good silhouette shot as the good light was disappearing fast, unfortunately just when you want to shoot it, you can’t find that perfect pose (I still don’t have gerenuks on their hind legs either). So the closest I got was this guy with the legs cut off by the mound.

The classic Topi pose, in silhouette.

Making our way towards the Mara river, we come across a family of lions that are enjoying an impala kill. I try to get some interesting shots out of it, but the light is getting harsher and because we’re in the reserve we’re not free to drive outside the tracks, so I don’t feel they’re worth posting.

We move on and come across the leopard Siri with her young cub. They’re hiding in the bushes, and we can’t seem to get a good view of them. After trying for a while we hang back and wait for them to come out. Turns out they have an old carcass hanging in one of the trees, so after a while Siri climbs up and check the surroundings before she lets the cub climb up and try to get some more meat of the brownish bones while she stands guard halfway down the tree.

Leopards don’t generally follow the migration, and so being able to feed even when most of the wildebeest are gone is essential

Probably not the most tasty meal, learning to make use of old food sources is none the less an important skill.

With her cub further up in the tree, the mother makes sure nothing dangerous gets too close.

Down by the bank of the Mara river a group of young lions have moved up from the south. If they want to continue north, they need to cross the river. Maybe they’ve left their pride and are trying to avoid other lions, they seem to want to risk crossing pretty near to a group of crocodiles, maybe 20 meters away.

After a lot of hesitation the young males cross over one by one. But the young lioness seems far less convinced this is a good idea. Testing the water with her paw, she shows clear signs of discomfort. But eventually she reluctantly wades out and starts swimming across with a grimace.

After all her brothers had crossed, the young lioness was clearly uncomfortable with the idea of following.

Finally deciding to follow her brothers to the other side, the expression shows the young lioness is not enjoying her swim.

We pass a carcass and observe some of the vultures and other scavengers there, and I get a shot of the marabou’s impressive takeoff performance. Why on earth Nordic chocolate manufacturers chose this bird as their logo is beyond me…

Clearly not the prettiest bird in east Africa, the Marabou is nonetheless an imposing figure, and when taking off looks quite dramatic.

If you can’t find a good carcass, you have to make do with beetles and worms in dung.

Crossing the Talek river and continuing south of the Olkiombo airstrip we find Malaika the cheetah with her unusual litter of kittens. Originally 6 cubs is surprising in itself. But to still have 5 as old as these is really fantastic. Unfortunately I heard she lost 2 more in the following year.

Family of cheetahs relaxing under a tree

Most cheetah cubs don’t have as many play pals as these.

With one sibling stuck in a tree, the remaining 4 try to make the time pass while mother Malaika rests.

Sometimes having 4 siblings can get a bit much and it’s best to take a break.

This cheetah cub is discovering why most cheetahs don’t climb trees.

Cheetah cub discovering that while trees are easy to climb up, they’re not as easy to climb down.

One of Malaikas cubs decides to examine the surroundings alone

While she gave birth to six cubs, having brought 5 to this age is quite an unusual accomplishment for cheetahs.

Water = Buffalos

One of those animals you stop photographing when they stand up without taking their eyes off you…

When it’s time for lunch we stop at a spot overlooking the Mara river. This is the same spot I’ve been on previous trips, and normally it’s been a great place to photograph small birds. Unfortunately we get a rainshower just before we stop, which seems to dampen both the enthusiasm of the birds, and it certainly dampens my enthusiasm for getting down on my stomach in the undergrowth. We do get a few curious visitors, at least.

One of the few birds that came close while we had lunch at the bank of the Mara.

As we move across an open stretch of the savanna, among wildebeest and zebra herds, we find a mating couple of lions. Hanging around for a while, my travel companions get to observe the strange ritual that is lion mating. There’s a lot of growling, low rumbling noises, slaps across the face, and repetitions…. A LOT of repetitions…

Mating is hard work, especially if you’re a lion. So it’s important to get plenty of rest.

A mating couple of lions photographed against the Oloololo escarpment on the western edge of Mara

Again!? There’s not insignificant tension between a mating couple of lions.

Well, it’s lions mating…

And now for something completely different…

Well, I think it’s a flat-headed rock agama, anyway

Arriving back in the conservancy, we pass Porini Lion Camp northwards and find a lioness with her 3 young cubs. They’re a lot of fun and we hang around for a while, observing their play and the mothers incredible patience.

Practicing essential skills for adulthood

The more siblings, the more to practice your killer moves on.

Being the focus of constant sneak attacks by 3 claw-equipped energizer bunnies is trying stuff.

There’s just no peace to be had.

Lioness with one of her little cubs.

We start looking for something interesting to shoot in sunset lighting, and come across a leopard not far away. I think it might be the resident male Yellow, but I’m not sure. Could be Fig as well. I really should learn to tell them apart by the face. Unfortunately he or she is being uncooperative and stays in the creek and thereby in the shadows.

I think it might be Yellow, but I’m not sure. We came across him as the sun was setting, and light was pretty poor.

John spots some giraffes on a hill nearby and we move there in all haste to catch the last rays of light. I must say I’m pretty happy with these silhouettes.

As the sun set, we came across a group of giraffes on a hill.

A giraffe in silhouette during sunset over Mara.

After a 14 hour drive across most of the Maasai Mara system I’ll admit to being pretty worn out when we returned to the camp. I seem to remember I nearly fell asleep during the bucket shower. But these excursions into the reserve offer some unique sights and really shouldn’t be missed. Even if it’s outside of migration season.

The next day the plan was to stay in the conservancy, so we would have a chance to relax back in the camp in the middle of the day.